Milk Paint is the oldest natural paint known to man and can still be found in some cave paintings. This paint contains milk protein (casein), limestone, clay, chalk and pigments made from iron oxides and those synthesized from natural resources. The result is a very durable paint popularly used by modern designers, green consumers and homeowners seeking to capture a variety of modern, trendy, antique and textured looks ( in fact when using less water than called for, the texture can even be used for embossing!!).
Our authentic milk paint provides a long lasting, very durable and hard as stone finish for interior or exterior uses! No other modern paint can create the unique look that can be easily achieved by using Milk Paint.
It can absorbed into a porous surface to never chip or peel.
Milk Paint is suitable for both interior and exterior applications and is naturally mould resistant.
Milk paint provides a completely breathable coating and is ideal for painting plaster, drywall, primed drywall, straw bale houses and a variety of other surfaces.
With our Bonding Agent you can now use Milk Paint on even more surfaces such as previously painted walls with a gloss sheen, varnished or lacquered surfaces, previous coats of paint, ceramic tiles, metal or, glass.
|30g||Tester||8-10 ft²||(a side table, several mirror frames or small chair)|
|230g||(1 Quart / 0.5 lbs)||70-75 ft²||(a dresser and a side table)|
|460g||(2 Quarts / 1 lbs)||140-150 ft²||(a large hutch)|
|2.3kg||(10 Quarts / 5 lbs)||700-750 ft²||(a large dining room table with 8 chairs and sideboard)|
|4.5kg||(20 Quarts / 10 lbs)||1,400-1,500 ft²||(large size kitchen, all cabinets and an island)|
|13.6kg||(60 Quarts / 30 lbs)||4,200-4,500 ft²||(multiple large projects, a full size deck and large kitchen and flooring etc)|
There are many ways to mix the milk paint, we offer you guidelines on how to mix it, what consistency to look for, however, we encourage to always test out a small amount to make sure that you are happy with your mixture.
Milk Paint can be a stain or a solid opaque paint depending on how much water you add.
For a solid opaque look, you will mix as such: Mix 1 Part water to 1 Part Milk Paint powder.
1 Part can be anything you want, a tablespoon, a cup etc. It depends on the size of your project. Add water first, then add powder and mix with a whisk, electric milk frother, or blender.
For a super smooth and fine finish using a blender will produce the best results, otherwise mixing with a frother or a whisk may take 1-2 minutes more mixing for a super fine mix. Your mixed Milk Paint should have a table cream consistency for opaque coverage.
Once satisfied with your consistency, test out a small sample to see the coverage. If the sample is too thick (opaque) then add more water, if the sample is too thin (transparent) then add more powder. Adjust as required, and start painting!
his depends on the surface that you are painting on. If it is bare wood, porous, or whether it is a super shiny previously coated piece and requires the bonding agent.
Typically 1 Quart of a very light white color will cover aprx 50-70 sq ft, whereas a darker color will give you coverage of 70 + sq ft. Think of a large armoire, that would require 1 Quart. Or a dresser and two side tables, that would require 1 Quart.
90% of the application issues lie within the mix. A good mix is key to a great finish.
Make sure you are stirring your Milk Paint until most of the paint is dissolved. A mini whisk, milk frother, or blender are great tools for smooth mixes. Let your paint sit for a few minutes after mixing to assure that all the limestone and clay dissolve. If you are painting a large project, stir your paint a few times to mix the pigments back up. Dip your brush all the way to the bottom of the container you mixed. The paint on the top will be thinner and more translucent, especially when you used a frother.
*Little lumps can be smoothed out with a fine sandpaper after it’s dry, and can lead to some really neat distressed/antiquing effects!
When to use the Bonding Agent
When your surface is previously finished, or sealed, Milk paint will resist and chip if it cannot be absorbed. Your ratios of Bonding Agent can be adjusted as well depending on the amount of seal or shine your piece has. Simply add more or less.
Whereas the Chippy Look is one of the most popular finishes for Milk Paint, sometimes and can be a bit tricky to accomplish!
Here are some things you want to consider:
The finish on which you are painting: is it sealed, shiny, or painted?
-Milk Paint will “resist” surfaces in which it can’t be absorbed. This resisting will create chips and flakes of Milk Paint. Where you need to be cautious it that your entire project can flake off if you don’t give it some “grip” in areas where you want it to stick. To achieve some “grip”, do some sanding where you want adhesion, or do a coat with Bonding Agent on the areas you want more coverage, leaving areas that are okay to chip to be applied with no Bonding Agent.
-Milk Paint on raw or very porous surfaces will be completely absorbed and will NOT Chip or flake.
If you want some resist in certain areas, we recommend using an advanced technique using the Hemp Oil or the Wax pucks. Simply apply the Oil generously in areas you want chipping. Apply your Milk Paint immediately over the oil. Your Milk Paint will look oily and will separate some
Apply your Milk Paint immediately over the oil. Your Milk Paint will look oily and will separate some on that area, let it be, don’t overwork it. When the Milk Paint dries, it will start to peel and flake, giving you chipping in that area.
When using a wax puck - rub heavily on the edges, or areas you want resist. Paint directly over this. It will not allow the paint to adhere well. Then wipe, or gently sand over the waxed area so and see how easily the paint lifts right off!
Both give authentic aged patinas!
We highly recommend taking a workshop from a trained retailer in your area!
When my piece is really chipping, and I don’t want it to continue to chip, how do I seal it up?
Super chippy pieces will need a coat of polyacrylic (water based) to prevent future chipping.
Do not use hemp oil on these finishes as the oil will get into it and cause it to continue to chip. If you had random or patchy chippiness, and it doesn’t seem to chip any more, our furniture wax will be a great top coat.
Hemp oil is great for projects that are outdoors, as once it cures it protects and wears beautifully in the elements.
Wax, however, will break down, and emulsify in the heat. We do not recommend waxing pieces that will be in the heat or sun.
For an extra durable top coat, use a hemp oil layer, and let cure (until dry to the touch) and then apply wax on top. *remember wax over oil, never oil over wax!
Antiquing wax has dark pigment in it that will age and darken your paint.
Furniture wax will dry clear and give your colors the richness that they need after they dry.
Yes, you can use Antiquing wax, furniture wax, and hemp oil in a single project.
Paint your piece and apply direct heat immediately after coating (such as a blow dryer) to the areas you want to crackle. This is a really easy, natural crackle to achieve without having to use a crackle medium product.
Do you have questions? We would love to hear from you!